Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Painting Lords of Oblivion - Part 2

I could have sworn I hit that publish button last week... Oops. Well, anyway, here's part two of painting the Lords of Oblivion!


So, we'll start off with the gold. I'll focus mainly on the sergeant for this part.

First up is a base coat of Balthasar Gold. This'll take two thin coats like always. THIN YA PAINTS!


Next I cover everything in a coat of Vallejo's Old Gold. There's not really a Citadel equivalent color. It's a nice, darker shade of gold that has a slightly more antiquated look to it. I like it, I think it looks slightly more realistic than the bright shiny stuff (Because realism is super-important when painting your giant superhuman soldier dudes).


Since I'm a genius who always pays attention, I forgot to take a picture of the next step, which is to give it a thin wash of Agrax Earthshade. This, of course, shades the recessed areas. Next I do a very light drybrush on the raised areas with Vallejo's...Polished Gold, I think it was called. I'm not sure, the text has completely faded off the label. It's a nice step between Old Gold and Citadel's Burnished Gold.

Finally, I did a very thin coat of Lamenter's Yellow glaze to bring the shine back out and smooth over the color transitions.


Next up is that sexy, sexy bare skin. Again, using the sergeant here, as he's the only one with any showing in the squad. Nice and simple to start, just a couple coats of Cadian Fleshtone, get a smooth cover, not worried too much about the eyes right now, I'll get to those later.


After that I actually do highlighting. Might be a little hard to see, but some Kislev Flesh on the raised areas gets the contrast started.


This is followed up with a wash of the fan-f**king-tastic Reikland Fleshshade. Like, seriously, I love this stuff. It's useful pretty much no matter what skin tone you're going for. And by putting it over the highlights, as you can see, it smooths the transitions considerably. It also brought out a lovely little detail I never noticed previously, the sergeant having a scar through his lip. Very nice touch by GW there.

I make sure to use a fine detail brush and run a little extra of the stuff along the edges with his comms gear and hairline, for a clear demarcation between them.


Back to the squad as a whole, it's time for shading on the armor. So I actually don't like Nuln Oil for this, it comes out a little too shiny I think. Instead, I take Abaddon Black and heavily water it down, plus add a drop of "special sauce". The sauce is an empty eyedropper bottle from Vallejo, filled almost entirely with plain pure water, but with a drop of dish soap added and shaken thoroughly.

A drop of this stuff added to paint on your pallet will drastically reduce the surface tension of it, thanks to the soap, making it flow more readily into recesses. Perfect for making something work better for shading. I thin the paint until it's not much thicker than water, but it's a tricky balance getting it just right. Too thin and it won't show up very well when it's painted on.

Anyway, once it's at the right consistency, I grab a fine detail brush and run the stuff into all the various recesses on each model. All the crevices in the armor, a little on the flexible joint parts to turn them back to black, all the corners, cracks, nooks, crannies, etc. Even just these five guys took a couple hours. I dunno if I'm just really slow at it, but it's a bit of a time-consuming process. Though not nearly as time consuming as highlighting.

Speaking of highlighting, that's what I'll be covering in part three!

No comments:

Post a Comment